Montreal, here I come!
Of all the deli trips I have taken, and will take, nothing holds a candle to the expectations of the upcoming week. As of Monday morning, I will be heading to Montreal, the city of my family roots, but most importantly, the place where my love for deli was born and where this project began six years ago.
Montreal is where my father and his friend Steven Rothstein took me to Schwartz’s when I was just ten…laying a thin karnatzel on a piece of rye and pouring the mustard on. Mordechai Richler made it legendary, with Duddy Kravitz and Jake Hersh. It is the land of Wilensky’s salami and bologna grilled “special”, possibly my favorite sandwich ever, and of the wafer thin mohn cookies and club rolls of Snowdon Deli, the parent of Centre Street here in Toronto. There will be smoked turkey at Lester’s and stuffed chicken at Abie’s, and more than one rib steak at the Main and Schwartz’s. There will be rivers of Cott’s black cherry cola, and miles of karnatzel, lakes of mustard, and dozens of smoked meat sandwiches…cut by hand…everywhere I go. I’ll also sample the Quebecois favorites, like smoked meat poutine, smoked meat pizza, or the deadly smoked meat steamy hot dog.
Is Montreal the finest deli town on earth?
I think so, and I explained my theory in part to Montreal Gazette journalist Bill Brownstein, who worked it into his column today.
“Why the thriving state of our delis might just explain our aversion to tax cuts”
“….If a resto of the haute-cuisine calibre makes it more than five years in this finicky foodie city, the proprietors might consider throwing a party. Ten years, and it’s a parade. Not to detract from the fine veggie-only eateries in town, but none can or, likely, will ever be able to, boast the longevity of a Wilensky’s where that grilled bologna/salami Special continues to touch the hearts of Montrealers - in more ways than we might care to realize…..”
READ IT HERE. Thanks Bill.
Brownstein is one of Montreal’s foremost personalities and deli experts. I just finished reading his book on the history of Schwartz’s Hebrew Delicatessen. I highly suggest it as reading for true deli fans, or ex-Montrealers who crave nothing more than a medium fat on rye with mustard, pickles, fries, slaw, and a black cherry.
BUY “SCHWARTZ’S HEBREW DELICATESSEN: THE STORY” HERE
