One of my loyal readers just sent me a great link from the blog of Arthur Schwartz’s, aka the Food Maven. Schwartz is known in New York and Jewish food circles as the man who knows how to munch. He is a folklorist of New York foods, posessing an encyclopedic knowledge of things like hot dogs, knishes, and pizza slices. Schwartz is a big guy. He can pound the food away with the best of them, and he has a fond spot for deli. His chapter on delicatessen in New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes is a must read for deli fans.
Recently, Schwartz was in Baltimore, and had a chance to stop in and eat at Attman’s, the delicatessen on Corned Beef Row.
“I also tried Attmanís pastrami, corned beef, and chopped liver. The menu says it sells ďauthentic New York delicatessen (only better).Ē I hate to admit it, because I am such a New York chauvinist, but Attmanís is right. Their meats are better than almost any deli you can get in New York these days. In fact, I canít think of better pastrami, except at Katzís and Juniorís. Attmanís is well-spiced, lightly smoked, and incredibly succulent and tender without being too fatty. Youíve gotta have some streaks of fat. I have to laugh when people complain that pastrami is too fatty. Itís made from plate beef, also called navel, which is equivalent to bacon. Fat is part of the attraction, a good part. The corned beef, of course brisket, was equally succulent, not terribly salty, great flavor, sliced paper thin. And since the Second Avenue Deli closed, I havenít had such good chopped liver Ė well, except for my own homemade, if I say so myself.”
To read the rest of the Food Maven’s blog entry on Attman’s, CLICK HERE.