Though I’ve been to delis in some pretty far flung places, one that I’m sorely lacking is Shapiro’s in Indianapolis, Indiana.
One of the oldest delis in the nation, open since 1905, Shapiro’s is a bastion of Midwestern corned beef love. It’s like Manny’s in Chicago, with a history that rival’s New York’s Katz’s. But I can’t say for sure, because I’ve sadly never been.
But I did get a nice writeup from Kansas City food blogger Charles Ferruzza, who is quite the fan of Shapiro’s and of the New York Bakery and Delicatessen, in KC, where I have been.
My favorite line: “I had to have a potato pancake too, a fluffy disc of mashed spuds as big as a 1960s ash tray, fried crispy and golden brown.”
The writeup from Michael Stern, the chief eater at Roadfood.com, is no less effusive in its praise:
Shapiro’s is best known, and rightly so, for its corned beef sandwich. The vivid red spiced meat is steamy hot, sliced thin and piled high between slices of excellent rye bread. With a couple of latkes (potato pancakes) on the side, you’ve got a great lunch. Other good sandwiches include melting-soft beef brisket, garlicky salami, and chopped liver. Among the hot dishes is matzoh ball soup masterfully made with extra-strength chicken broth guaranteed to cure anything that ails you.
One day I’ll check it out. Until then, I hope you can.
Shapiro’s Delicatessen Cafeteria
808 S Meridian St
Indianapolis, IN 46225