Eiran Harris: Montreal’s Human Deli Encyclopedia
A few months back I wrote a tribute to Eiran Harris, a great deli lover and scholar from Montreal. Some might have thought this a bit strange. Why did he deserve praise, say, when deli owners haven’t even received the same tribute.
Now you’ll see.
After years of research, working closely with Mr. Harris, my friend Lara Rabinovitch has posted an extensive interview with the master in the journal Cuizine, chronicling the history of smoked meat and delicatessen in Montreal. Prepare to learn a lot.
CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL INTERVIEW WITH PODCAST
Lara Rabinovitch: This is July 27th, 2009. We are at the Jewish Public Library Archives in Montreal. My name is Lara Rabinovitch. I am a PhD Candidate at the Skirball Department of Hebrew and Judaic Studies and the Department of History at New York University. I am here with Eiran Harris, who will now introduce himself.
Eiran Harris: My name is Eiran Harris. I am the Archivist Emeritus of the Jewish Public Library in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. The purpose of this narrative is to provide an accurate chronicle of the renowned Montreal-style Jewish smoked meat which has been enjoyed by millions of hungry consumers from all over the world for more than one hundred years.
Lara Rabinovitch: So, Eiran, what were the origins of Montreal-style smoked meat?
Eiran Harris: Inaccurate information did not originate with the internet. For many years deli lovers argued about the origins of Montreal-style Jewish smoked meat; was it Old Man Wiseman or Old Man Kravitz who introduced it? Well, it was neither. In 1911, 63-year-old Wolf Wiseman, father of highly respected doctor Max Wiseman, placed an ad in the Yiddish language daily, the Keneder Adler, in which he proclaimed: “News for Smoked Meat lovers. Your old familiar sausage dealer makes known to the deserving public that he opened a first class delicatessen store at 35 Ontario Street West, where he will sell the best smoked meat, corned beef, salami sausage, and canned goods.”
Having conducted extensive research, I have not discovered any proof that Old Man Wiseman introduced or ever manufactured smoked meat. Old Man Kravitz will be dealt with later.
The earliest ad in Montreal mentioning smoked meats, of which I am aware, appeared in 1876, announcing that they were being manufactured by the Canadian Meat and Produce Company, whose agents were McGibbon, Baird & Company of Montreal. These were not Jewish-style products.
The actual genesis was the arrival in 1884 of Aaron Sanft from Yassi, Romania. He became Montreal’s first kosher butcher. Historians believe that modern day smoked meat originated in Turkey and was brought to Romania by invading Turkish armies. Romanian Jewish butchers improved the curing process resulting in an exquisitely tender delicacy.
CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL INTERVIEW
December 22nd, 2009 at 3:39 pm
Is this available in High def.? haha
October 5th, 2010 at 2:51 pm
would like receipes for montreal style smoked meat brisket .thanks.
July 29th, 2011 at 11:41 am
Ohh very much thanks admin