Photo credit: Nicki Thomas/Toronto Star
Back at the end of 2010, I, like many of my Toronto mishpucha, heard the news that Moe Pancer’s delicatessen was changing hands. After reading a pretty disastrous interview with new owner Lenny Gould, I was worried, and from what you all commented, so were the deli’s fans.
Today, in the Toronto Star, my friend Corey Mintz has an article that touches on the transition.
I joined Corey when he went to Pancer’s to check out how things had changed, and I returned a week later. And here’s what I think: Pancer’s is still Pancer’s. The corned beef is still tender and shaved paper thin, the matzo ball soup still potent. The atmosphere’s the same, the great waitresses are the same, and so far, finger’s crossed, Mr. Gould has done a great job.
I’m as guilty as anyone to fear that the sky is falling when a deli changes hands. I’ve seen how change precipitates disaster in this business. Owners change, a new generation takes over, locations shift, and menus evolve. Each step can spell the end, but in just as many cases the deli thrives. For now, it looks like Pancer’s is going to keep on thriving, and that’s good news for everyone.