Los Angeles Magazine: Patric Kuh on LA’s best delis
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My good friend Sara Wilson over at Los Angeles Magazine just yesterday sent me a gorgeous article on that city’s great delicatessens, written by Patric Kuh. As I’ve written before HERE and HERE, LA is an astounding locale for deli eating, in many respects second to none. Known legends, like Langer’s, Canter’s, or Nate n’ Al are the types of places deli aficionados dream of. But as Kuh’s article points out, there are others that are just as good, but less known, like Brent’s, Art’s, or Factor’s.
The article, wonderfully titled “What’s Not to Like”, is a simple layout of praise and full page portraits of massive sandwiches, pickles, and egg creams. It does omit a few key delicatessens, such as Junior’s, but also presents a few I haven’t even heard of, like Marv’s and Billy’s. Still, no list can ever be complete, and upon opening this file, deli fans on either coast can start salivating.
Photographs by JAMES WOJCIK.
“L.A.’s delis are more than purveyors of towering pastrami sandwiches, house-brined pickles, and foaming egg creams.
They are social temples where all are welcome to nosh”
“Cutting lox from the center of the ﬁ llet—that’s nothing. For one person, the pickles should all be sour. For another, the brisket must
be lean. For a third, it’s imperative that the bagel chips arrive before the soup. “When you bring the sandwich, only bring half of it,” says a lady at Junior’s in Westwood. When you bring the sandwich, only bring half of it is not a Zen riddle. It’s a request that anyone in a deli can understand. The other half is brought wrapped in tinfoil so that it doesn’t lose its warmth.”
Here’s Kuh’s listing of the top 10, for those of you obsessed with ranking:
3. Nate n’ Al
5. Pico Kosher
10. Label’s Table
What I’d give for a plane ticket to LA and an endless hunger for two weeks!