As Promised: A Paperback Preview
Wednesday, October 20th, 2010Yesterday I promised you a taste of the new paperback chapter, and here it is folks, hot off the press.
Afterword to the Paperback Edition
The Schmaltz Strikes Back: Deli’s Future Returns to Its Roots
In the spring of 2008, shortly after I’d finished most of the writing and editing of this book, I received a brief email via savethedeli.com from a guy named Zane Caplan. He stated his intention to cure his own smoked meat and sell it in Toronto, and though his budget was lean, he boasted that deli was “in his blood”. To be honest, I kind of shrugged. I got emails like this all the time and never heard from the majority of these dreamers again. My roommate at the time, Adam Caplan, looked over my shoulder and remarked, “I think that guy’s my cousin.”
If there was ever an unlikely savior for deli in my hometown, Zane Caplan was it. He grew up in a political dynasty, surrounded by well-known parents and siblings who held prominent posts in Canadian government. Zane fell into that life, running campaigns and working in related businesses, until a difficult divorce sent him across the world on a bout of soul searching. He lived for a number of years in India, working in and running small restaurants for travelers. Cooking was his passion, and when he returned to Toronto after a few years abroad, he began catering to film sets and managing a pizzeria.
Deli held a special place in Zane’s heart. He had grown up eating at Switzer’s with his grandfather, who was in the garment business, and later held court at Moe Pancer’s, Yitz’s, Coleman’s, and other stalwarts of the Toronto deli scene. Inspired by his frequent road trips to Montreal for Schwartz’s smoked meat, Zane began tinkering around in his home kitchen, trying to replicate a decent alternative so he wouldn’t have to drive five hours each time he wanted a sandwich. He dry cured raw briskets with pickling salt and a dozen heady spices (including mustard seed, fennel, and Kashmiri chili powder he’d procured in Little India) for two weeks, then smoked them over hickory in his backyard. He served it to friends. They loved it. “You should open a deli,” a few said.
Why not a deli? People loved the barbecue and charcuterie restaurants that were popping up on every corner, and wasn’t smoked meat a marriage of the two? Young Jewish families and retiring baby boomers were returning to downtown Toronto, which boasted a vibrant Jewish cultural scene, but most of the Jewish restaurants remained in the suburbs. Wasn’t it time the delicatessen returned as well? Zane saw his life’s mission taking shape before his eyes. His great-grandfather was one of the first kosher butchers in the city, and this would be a continuation of the family legacy. He would name the deli after his family’s original name, and to make his commitment official, Zane went and legally changed his last name back to Caplansky.
Want to read more? Then do yourself a favor and buy yourself the paperback.
Paperback Time!
Tuesday, October 19th, 2010
The paperback is officially out!
Can you believe it’s been a year?
Yes folks, last year, on this day, Save the Deli launched like a schmaltz powered rocket. Remember the party at Ben’s? 400 plus people who came for free food, and Freddie Roman, Jelvis, and world records… Since then I’ve toured all over America with the book, talked to countless deli lovers, and even took home a few awards.
And now, I bring you the new and improved Save the Deli, in paperback. We’ve made a few changes, corrected some mistakes, but most importantly, there’s an ENTIRELY NEW CHAPTER on the roots movement of new delis. It talks about Caplansky’s, Mile End, and Kenny and Zuke’s, three of the most important Jewish delis to open in a long time. Tomorrow, I’ll post a sample from the new chapter, but if you really want to sink your teeth into it, buy a copy today.
Reasons why:
- new material!
- lighter than the hardcover!
- cheaper than the hardcover!
You can also get it on the Kindle, or iPad, or the rest of those sweet devices. So head to the Save the Deli store today and stock up.
*note: it’s out now in the US, but the Canadian edition just went to the printer. Sorry Canada, you’re going to have to wait a few weeks.
Smoked Meat in Chicago?
Thursday, October 14th, 2010Until very very recently, Montreal Style smoked meat was only available in Montreal, and select parts of Toronto, and a few spots in Canada.
Then we saw the opening of Brooklyn smoked meat emporium Mile End.
And now we have a sighting in Chicago.
According to Tasting Table:
There’s something exciting in the air–something smoky and meaty. It emanates from a small machine behind the Fumare Meats counter, where owner Dick McCracken has recently begun making pastrami.
McCracken starts with corned beef, soaks it, reseasons it with bay leaf, mustard seeds, garlic and allspice, then loads it into a low-temperature oven. It spends the night at 250˚ on a maple-wood bed, and emerges in the morning glistening with fat, with a rosy glow and a sweet smoke flavor. A fresh hunk (or two) are smoked each night, and sometimes more on the weekends.
He says it’s less salty and more fatty than much of what’s found in Chicago delis. And its name, “Montreal-style pastrami,” references his use of maple instead of hickory wood.
I don’t think the wood has as much to do with it as much as the spicing and the use of brisket, but it sounds damn close to Montreal Smoked Meat. Anyone tried this? Thoughts? Opinions?
Pork in Israel, Jack in the Box kills rye
Wednesday, September 29th, 2010And now for something completely treyf, and I’m not talking Reubens.
Today in the New York Times, my friend Jeffrey Yoskowitz (who is kosher), writes about Israeli’s first pork cookbook:
ANY author has to deal with bad reviews, but how about the wrath of God?
Dr. Eli Landau has written “The White Book,” touted as the first Israeli pork cookbook.
With 80 mainly Mediterranean recipes and Eastern European dishes, “The White Book” tries to reveal the secrets of the pig for cooks who have never prepared it nor perhaps even tasted it….Dr. Landau, a 61-year-old retired cardiologist and food writer from Tel Aviv, likes pork and thinks there are many Israelis who shy from it not so much because it’s taboo, but because they don’t know how to prepare it.
“People are reluctant to cook pork at home,” said Dr. Landau, who is not an observant Jew. “I want to make it easier for chefs and personal cooks to bring it home and to the menus. If that happens, I’ll be more than happy.”
I’m not kosher, and I do eat treyf, so I’m not offended by this at all. What I am offended by is this:
Getting rid of rye, eh? The devil wears a clown head.
Save the Deli nominated for Canadian Culinary Book Award
Thursday, September 16th, 2010
This just in off Google Alerts (honestly, I would never know about anything without it).
Save the Deli has been nominated for a Canadian Culinary Book Award. I guess they knew I moved back home.
According to the Canadian Press:
After reading 68 entries and testing many recipes, 20 Canadian food professionals have chosen a short list for the Canadian Culinary Book Awards.
The annual awards are sponsored by Cuisine Canada and the University of Guelph. The winners, along with the second award for the Canadian Culinary Landmarks Hall of Fame and the annual Edna Staebler Award, will be announced Nov. 5 on the opening day of the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair in Toronto.
Shortlisted in the English Special Interest Category, books about food and beverages:
—Tony Aspler for “Tony Aspler’s Cellar Book: How to Design, Build, Stock and Manage Your Wine Cellar Wherever You Live,” (Random House Canada, Toronto).
—Ricki Heller, “Sweet Freedom: Desserts You’ll Love without Wheat, Eggs, Dairy or Refined Sugar,” (Trafford Publishing, Victoria, B.C.)
—David Sax for “Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye and the Heart of the Jewish Delicatessen,” (McClelland and Stewart, Toronto).
Very cool. I’m quite honored. And I’ve always been curious about the Royal Winter Fair. So let’s cross our fingers for November.
Ratner’s Second Life?
Wednesday, September 15th, 2010
I don’t venture into the world of dairy too often (trying to keep this kosher style), but I love an onion roll and shmear as much as the next guy. Sadly, the number of Jewish dairy restaurants were never many, and their decline has been even more dramatic than the delicatessen.
The biggest to fall was Ratner’s, a staple of New York’s Lower East side for much of the 20th century, known for freshly baked breads, soups, gefilte fish, and the surliest waiters in the world. It closed about a decade back, and I get emails at least once a month asking if it will ever reopen.
Well…maybe. Though not where you think.
Ratner’s is apparently opening in Los Angeles, at the corner of La Cienega and 3rd, right in Hollywood. The final city permit hearing was yesterday, which means those blintzes of yore could be coming to the city of Angels real soon.
Here’s the press release they’ve sent out a few weeks back:
“We are happy to announce the upcoming arrival of West 3rd Streets newest Restaurant….Ratner’s Deli! Ratner’s will be a modern reincarnation of the original NYC Deli that was open for almost 100 years! With a top secret celebrity chef in the kitchen, Ratner’s will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as for take out and delivery. The team of Ratner’s Deli wants you to know that we are all lifelong residents of the community and that we are truly committed to being positive and active members of the commercial district. We are already an instrumental part of the 3rd street valet program, which will alleviate much of the parking congestion that is rampant in our neighborhood. In addition, 1% of our yearly net profits will be reinvested in our community to a project chosen by our customers! We thank you for your support and looking forward to serving you next year!”
Sounds promising. My only concerns are “celebrity chef”, and the fact that they’re calling it a “deli”. But I’m willing to wait and see, and if it’s good, I’ll be flying out there with my mother, who talks about Ratner’s to this day.
Mayogate Not As Bad As I Thought
Saturday, August 21st, 2010Yesterday I reported that President Obama ordered a deli sandwich with mayo, assuming it was for him. I was wrong, and shouldn’t have assumed that. A Save the Deli source in the White House corrected the error. I’m quoting his email here:
“Fear not! I was also horrified when I first learned about this, and checked, turns out it was actually Kendrick Meek who ordered corned beef with mayo. The President ordered his with mustard (Axelrod’s influence, no doubt!). The confusion happened because technically the President ordered both, since he paid.”
My apologies to the President, his family, and America for the error. Allowing Congressman Meek to order his sandwich with mayo is still a minor sin (a time for leadership, if there ever was one), but my presumption blew mayogate way out of proportion.
I suppose this is a good time to announce that I’ll be leaving New York and moving back to Canada at the end of the month. No, I haven’t been exiled for dragging the President’s name through the mud. Just married to a lovely woman from the homeland. I’ll miss you NY, and your delis, of course.
Oy, Obama (see correction in next post)
Friday, August 20th, 2010***I got this wrong. The President ordered the mayo sandwich for his companion. Please see next post for correction***
Despite the fact that President Obama has been seen eating corned beef, on rye, with mustard at Manny’s Deli in Chicago, despite the fact that I actually visited the White House, and saw a signed photograph of Manny’s in Obama’s chief advisor’s office, despite the fact that this advisor, Lower East Side deli maven David Axelrod, runs much of the show inside the administration…the President of the United States made that cardinal sin of all American politicians…
He ordered his corned beef sandwich with mayonaise. Oy.
Reports the Miami New Times:
It has been widely reported that President Obama and U.S. Rep. Kendrick Meek stopped by Jerry’s Famous Deli on South Beach after their fundraiser at the Fontainebleau. Never mind that the Prez ordered one of two corned beef sandwiches with mayonnaise (oy!) — the biggest political sandwich blunder since presidential candidate Kerry went to Philly and asked for a cheesesteak sandwich with swiss cheese!
Like George McGovern and Bobby Kennedy before him, Obama made the mistake of asking for mayo, that technically kosher, but spiritually treyf condiment so abhorred by true deli lovers. But the New Times heaps further scorn for his choice of deli: Jerry’s Famous Deli, the big business deli that destroyed the Rascal House, Wolfie’s, and much of South Florida’s deli legacy.
I know it’s just a trivial matter of picking out a deli, but I’ll bet Bill Clinton’s aides would have seen to it that when he was going to make a comment about supporting small business, he’d do so in the confines of an actual small business, with real working class small business owners hugging him and glowing with appreciation (actually, he’d be hugging them, but you get the point).
Here at Save the Deli, we think the President still has a chance to regain our trust. I’ve just been informed that a new Jewish deli is opening in the DC area. The Uptown Deli is opening soon in Bethesda, MD, that military rich suburb outside DC, where the Prez surely goes to visit his doctor. Its owner, Howard Wasserman, is promising authentic Jewish deli fare, and he is doing something the President can surely support: opening a small business at the height of this recession. Pay Howard a visit Mr. Obama. For our sake and yours.
Uptown Deli
7905 Norfolk Ave
Bethesda MD 20814
301-961-5787
This Sunday Night: The Foodstuff Show
Tuesday, August 17th, 2010
I’ve been told I’m kind of funny, which is the best compliment for me to hear. As a kid, my greatest dream was being on Saturday Night Live, and I spent a lot of time in front of the mirror imitating Dana Carvey characters. All of this helps explain my late exit from virginity.
But this Sunday I take to the esteemed stage of the People’s Improv Theatre (the PIT) in New York, as a guest on the Foodstuff Show with Brett and Ben, the funniest comedy duo focusing on food in the world (and yes, the only one). The Foodstuff Show came about this summer because actors, comedians, and budding diabetics Brett Wean and Ben Masten wanted to drain the seriousness out of food, and inject it with a big dose of laughter. They’ve got musical guests and comedy guests, and each show one food guest. That’s me this Sunday night. We’re going to be talking deli, and I’m told that I have to make the audience laugh or they’ll go on Amazon and bombard my book’s rating with one star reviews.
The guests this week include the Ninja Sex Party
And a special musical guest. I’m not allowed to say who he is, but if you’re a fan of this band, you will certainly know him (or her).
And me, talking and joking about deli. Or maybe being dead serious and pulling an Andy Kaufman. Either way, should be fun.
It’s already being hyped in the Village Voice as “laughs for a slightly more refined palate”.
8pm on Sunday, August 22nd
Tickets $5 BUY THEM HERE
The People’s Improv Theater,
located at 154 West 29th Street, between 6th & 7th Avenue
View Larger Map
Treyf Delicatessen Coming to SF
Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010
Considering San Francisco doesn’t have a kosher delicatessen, in theory, all its delis are treyf. But that doesn’t seem to be clear enough for Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, who will soon open Treyf Delicatessen in San Francisco.
Now before you call the local rabbi and start protesting, know that the name is tongue in cheek only. While not kosher, Treyf is going to be a classic Jewish deli in every sense, with nary a slice of pork in sight. The project’s evolution is outlined on the duo’s blog sfdelicatessen.blogspot.com, which includes the following mission statement:
It is our belief that San Francisco (and the Bay Area), home to some of the finest food and restaurants in the world, needs some good pastrami, pickles, and Babka (among other things). While we appreciate the Deli that exists here, we long for steaming hot, housemade pastrami cut by hand; would plotz for some earthy, shmaltz laden Kasha Varnishkas; would die for a decent black and white cookie.
There’s even photos detailing the home curing and smoking of their pastrami:
.jpg)
This looks promising. There’s been so much potential for a great roots delicatessen in San Francisco, though many have failed in recent years (the California Street Deli in the JCC, or the SF-NY Kosher Deli coming to mind). Could this be the one that hits it big? The actual opening is still months away, as Bloom and Beckerman seek out investors for the deli. If you’ve got some cash kicking around (and who doesn’t these days), perhaps this is a safer bet than those CDOs you’ve been eyeing.
