Deli Street Food Meets San Francisco
Friday, May 7th, 2010
(credit: stacey palevsky and nina lau)
San Francisco’s time is at hand. You heard it here folks.
The city is on the fringes of deli greatness. Saul’s in Berkeley is leading the sustainable deli movement nationwide, while local stalwarts like Miller’s and Moishe’s Pippic are keeping the city stocked with corned beef. Down in San Carlos, the Refuge is boasting world class pastrami. So far, these are the green shoots of something. We’re flirting with wonder here. The city, which boasts deli lovers, great ingredients, and serious foodies, has just lacked that kick to bring the great Northern California deli movement to the forefront.
Well, it’s here. And it’s right on the streets. Reports J Weekly:
(credit: Emily Savage)
Takin’ it to the streets: Jewish vendors add deli favorites to S.F. mobile food scene
by emily savage, staff writer
San Francisco’s Madame Bubbles was on her way to teach Hebrew school a few weeks ago when a small crowd of curious bystanders gathered around her.
Riding her 1950s-style adult tricycle, Madame Bubbles, aka Amelia Nahman, had a large basketful of chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer — for making egg creams, the classic East Coast deli beverage.
Nahman typically serves her nine-ounce egg creams at bar or bat mitzvahs, in municipal parks or on the sidewalk in front of bakeries. But on that particular day she was shlepping her ingredients to Congregation Sha’ar Zahav to whip up some samples for her students.
It seems that the inquisitive passersby had a different idea.
In fact, she ended up selling so many egg creams — made with homemade seltzer and served in compostable potato-starch cups — that she didn’t have enough left for her students. But don’t feel too bad for the kids; they’ll get to taste a real New York egg cream soon enough, at a Sha’ar Zahav picnic in Dolores Park on Saturday, May 8. Nahman has been invited to pedal over and serve up her treats.
Nahman’s egg cream business, named simply “Egg Cream Cart,” is part of an ever-expanding group of specialty food-cart vendors popping up across the nation, primarily in San Francisco, Portland, Los Angeles and New York. Call it a movement if you will, and it’s growing at a “gastronomical” rate thanks to a perfect storm of social networking and an active foodie community. CLICK HERE TO READ THE REST
The story goes on to detail other Jewish street food vendors in San Francisco, like Pearl’s Kitchen:
(credit: Nina Lau)
The menu for Pearl’s Kitchen consists of corned beef hash and egg salad sandwiches on homemade dill bread during brunch hours; and sweet noodle kugel and carved corned beef sandwiches on rye with mustard slurry at evening gatherings. The Bownes charge between $5 and $7 per item, and some of the food is cooked on-site, such as fried eggs in the mornings, made to order on a portable burner.
When Lauren and Jon arrive at street-food gatherings, they set up a large table, a propane gas burner and a variety of chafing dishes, along with a board listing that day’s menu. People amble by and typically have one of two reactions: “What is noodle kugel?” or “Oh my God, I haven’t seen kugel like that since my grandma made it.”
And this is just the start folks. When I was in San Francisco, I heard from several young foodsters who were interested in starting trucks, carts, and stands that will feature Jewish foods. A revolution is brewing in America’s most beautiful city. Get out there and taste it!
Forward asks “Can Pastrami Conquer the Palate in the Land of Hummus and Falafel?”
Thursday, May 6th, 2010
(there’s a deli on those shores)
From today’s Forward, a look at the new Jewish deli that’s become a bit of a sensation in Tel Aviv:
Can Pastrami Conquer the Palate in the Land of Hummus and Falafel?
by Gil Shefler
At Ruben, a new restaurant with a distinctly American Jewish flavor, there’s almost no need for a menu; the thick smell of pastrami is like a business card for the eatery’s unabashed focus on smoked meats. Patrons can choose among freshly sliced heaps of pastrami, turkey or a mix, placed between two thin slices of rye with sauerkraut and a schmear of mustard, horseradish or harrisa — a Tunisian hot sauce that is one of the few concessions made to suit the local palate.
Since it opened several months ago, Ruben has carved out a following for pastrami on rye in the land of pita and falafel. While American-themed restaurants have been around for a while, Ruben is the first to devote itself entirely to cold cut sandwiches and has won the distinction of being called Israel’s first authentic Jewish deli by the local press. This month, in fact, Ruben will become a chain when a new branch opens at another Tel Aviv location, with one more new opening planned soon after.
“Ruben’s success has exceeded our expectations,” bragged Gavriel Zilber, 31, one of the restaurant’s owners. “I think we’re successful because Israelis recognize the quality of our product. But also, it reminds them of visits to New York and Montreal.”
It may come as a surprise to some that it took 61 years for Israel to be able to boast its first deli. But it shouldn’t. Despite impressions, this is not quite Ashkenazi food from “the Old Country.” Delis serving hallmark fare like oversized sandwiches and matzo balls larger than baseballs are a distinctly American creation. Eastern European Jews invented them only after their arrival in the New World, around the turn of the 20th century, and combined Old Country staples with local favorites and ingredients. Similar variants developed among Jewish communities in places like France and the United Kingdom but not in Israel, where local cuisine evolved in a different direction.
David Sax, author of “Save the Deli,” which tells the story of the increasingly endangered Jewish delicatessen, says there are a number of reasons that the deli never made it to the Holy Land.
“The climate made it very difficult for people to grow the produce, especially raise cattle for such a meat-based food,” Sax said in a telephone interview from New York. “Also, the food itself doesn’t suit the climate as much. Then there was the clear philosophical break Israel’s founding fathers made with the Diaspora, and [the indigenous] falafel became the official food of Israel.” CLICK HERE TO READ THE REST OF THE ARTICLE
Hebrew National discontinues Mustard
Wednesday, May 5th, 2010
(Adios amigo)
This just in. Word from the deli world that Hebrew National is discontinuing their branded deli mustard, due to declining sales.
A letter from Hebrew National’s corporate owners ConAgra stated the following to delis on April 30th:
Due to declining sales, we will be discontinuing production of our Hebrew National branded mustard. The following three SKUs will no longer be available for sale as of May 1st, 2010:
• 74956-18512 HBN 4/1GAL DELI MUSTARD
• 74956-18507 HBN 12/12OZ SQZ BTL. DELI MUSTARD
• 74956-18517 HBN 12/24OZ DELI MUSTARD
This is just one more move away from traditional deli for Hebrew National. Since its purchase by food industry giant ConAgra in 1993, traditional deli products have disappeared on a regular basis. ConAgra wants to sell hot dogs to Cosco and Sam’s Club, not pastramis to small delis. Deli industry insiders say its only a matter of time before Hebrew National moves out of the deli business entirely.
Such a shame.
Save the Deli Wins A James Beard Award!
Monday, May 3rd, 2010
(Yes, that’s a Hawaiian tie)
Well deli lovers, we did it. Last night Save the Deli won a James Beard award in the category of Writing and Literature!
It was a wild night. I haven’t shvitzed that intensely since I was at a Russian banya. There was every kind of treyf you could imagine, great friends from the food world, and enough mixed alcohol to give me a hangover for the rest of today (hence, the late entry).
Thanks to everyone who made this happen. That means you.
We’ve Won a Canadian Jewish Book Award
Thursday, April 29th, 2010
Exciting news! Save the Deli has just won the 2010 Canadian Jewish Book Award for Memoir/Biography.
Now, while I don’t quite get the memoir/biography thing, I’m really honored and quite blown away.
The awards ceremony takes place in just under a month, on May 27th, at the Al Green theatre in Toronto’s downtown JCC (great shvitz there). I will not be attending (I’ll be on my honeymoon), but my dapper Canadian publisher and editor Doug Pepper will be there to accept on my behalf. Tickets are free.
This is definitely some great news, and a thanks to those who nominated and voted for Save the Deli.
Next up, the James Beard Awards, which take place this sunday in NYC, and where Save the Deli is nominated in the category of Writing and Literature. Hopefully it’ll be another dose of naches.
A deli saved in Calgary
Monday, April 19th, 2010
photo credit: Colleen De Neve, Calgary Herald
Sometimes it takes more to save a deli than just writing a book or blog post about it. Sometimes a deli’s salvation needs people to pitch it, help out, and take risks. Sometimes, just sometimes, it requires a community to step up to the plate and do what’s right.
That’s the story out of Calgary recently, when the owners of the Haifa Kosher Deli were hospitalized, and the deli threatened to shut down. In a small community like Calgary’s, where the kosher popoulation relies on a place like Haifa for much of their food, this would have been terrible. ShalomLife picks up the story:
In late December, co-owner Ivor Kavin underwent open heart surgery and his wife Denise was left all alone to run the deli. The job took a toll on her health and shortly after Ivor’s surgery, Denise came down with bronchial asthma and infected lungs. As soon as Ivor returned home from the operation, he took over the store but fell ill again and ended up in the hospital at the same time as his wife. That’s when the community stepped in.
“They are a group of angels,” Denise said about the volunteers to the Calgary Herald. “How do you thank them all?”
Sheila Martin led the pack after hearing about the couple’s misfortunes. She phoned the House of Jacob-Mikhev synagogue to recruit volunteers. Soon, about 20 volunteers signed up for rotating shifts.
There’s another story about the effort in the Calgary Herald as well.
This underscores more than anything I’ve heard, seen, or written about that the link between Jewish delicatessens and their communities are deeper than those of other businesses. It’s not just a restaurant, it’s a lifeline for kosher eating (if it’s kosher), lifecycle catering (bris’ to shivas), and love between patrons and owners.
Zay Gezunt to you all Calgary. Maybe my brother left your city too soon.
Haifa Deli
haifadeli.ca
3109 Palliser Dr. SW
Calgary, Alberta
(T2V 4W5) CANADA
TE: (403) 238-0525
FAX: (403) 640-1977
The NYT tackles Roots Delis
Wednesday, April 14th, 2010Back in NY, albeit just for a week. A big thanks to everyone in Albany and Boston who came out to support me, who listened on the radio, and who even bought a book. A special shout out to the Four Seasons Hotel in Boston, who sent this awesome little token up to my room:
Yes, that’s a white chocolate cover of Save the Deli, filled with cookies, and a corned beef sandwich made out of shaved red velvet cake and cookies. So cool.
image courtesy of NYTimes.com
Lots of deli news today. First, and most relevant, is a serious feature in the New York Times dining section by Julia Moskin, on what I called the Roots Delis, in Gourmet last year; the back to the farm, DIY, keeping it real deli movement that’s slowly sweeping across the nation.
Says the Times, in Can the Jewish Deli be Reformed:
New delis, with small menus, passionate owners and excellent pickles and pastrami, are rising up and rewriting the menu of the traditional Jewish deli, saying that it must change, or die. For some of them, the main drawback is the food itself, not its ideological underpinnings.
So, places like the three-month-old Mile End in Brooklyn; Caplansky’s in Toronto; Kenny & Zuke’s in Portland, Ore.; and Neal’s Deli in Carrboro, N.C., have responded to the low standard of most deli food — huge sandwiches of indifferent meat, watery chicken soup and menus thick with shtick — by moving toward delicious handmade food with good ingredients served with respect for past and present.
The piece was inspired by Saul’s debate on sustainability. Arguably that’s the deli that’s gone the furthest to radically change themselves, with all the controversy it’s ensued:
Many deli die-hards were present, the kind of people who have found Saul’s matzo brei with green garlic and mission figs to be a poor substitute for salami and eggs.
The story is sure to stir up more heated conversation, and I welcome it. While I don’t have the harsh words for more “traditional” delis that many of the owners quoted in the piece do (note to those deli owners, please look up the Jewish meaning of Lashan Hara and don’t talk shit about your brethren), I do praise a movement emerging of new delis that area challenging the status quo, in a way that’s respectful to the flavors of the past. These are undoubtedly the most exciting delis opening in recent years, and their success is a testament to that.
But let’s put this in the greater context of the deli world. There’s nothing wrong with Katz’s, or any other neighborhood deli that doesn’t source their meat from cattle lovingly massaged by artesenal hippy farmers. The Langer’s pastrami sandwich, with meat that is made in a commercial facility, and rye bread brought in from outside, is still an unmatched masterpiece. The 2nd Ave Deli is a temple. A holy fucking temple.
Can these places learn a thing or two from the new upstart roots delis? Undoubtedly. If their success encourages old school places to make more food from scratch, or experiment with new dishes, that will move the culture and cuisine of the delicatessen forward. But let’s not forget the past, and begrudge a style of Jewish deli that many people love and hold dear. For every young convert that’s rediscovered deli at these young places, there’s the lifelong customer at the old school kosher deli. He’s been eating there for 70 years, and it’s a part of his life. We should love all Jewish delis and show them the respect they deserve. Diversity is strength.
*Also, tonight I’ll be speaking at an event in NYC called Culinary Microhistories, at Housing Works Bookstore.
Join Trevor Corson, author of The Story of Sushi, David Sax, author of Save the Deli, Anne Mendelson, author of Milk, and Benjamin Wallace, author of The Billionaire’s Vinegar, for a discussion of food-writer obsessions, moderated by Publishers Weekly’s Mark Rotella.
7pm on Crosby, just south of Houston. Free.
On to Albany and Beantown
Thursday, April 8th, 2010Mmmm bread. Man did I enjoy that bagel this morning. Sweet carby goodness.
Hope you all had a nice Pesach. Now, back to the tour.
This weekend coming up is packed with events. On Saturday, I’ll be appearing at the Empire State Book Festival, in Albany, speaking on two panels. One on food history and the other on blogs to books (or in this case, books to blogs to books). Come on out if you’re in the area (I’ll be back there to speak at the JCC two weeks later).
Then, it’s on to the Boston area, for a trio of exciting events.
On Sunday, I’ll be talking at a brunch in Framingham, at Temple Beth Am. Call 508-561-0974 and speak to John if you want tickets.
That night, I’ll move to Newton, and talk during a dinner at Temple Shalom. Yes kids, there will be food. Contact the temple for tickets.
And finally, on Monday night, I will be at the Brookline Booksmith talking at 7pm. The event is free, and I’m told there’ll be some snacks from Zaftig’s on hand.
I haven’t been to Boston in years, and certainly never Jewish Boston, but I’m pretty psyched, because I’ve heard a lot about it from these two friends of mine, Ronna and Beverly, who also happen to be authors:
“America’s Great Delis” is reissued, in time for Pesach
Monday, March 29th, 2010
Well, the final hours of bread eating are upon us. I had a delicious bagel here for breakfast, and by god am I going to feast on the carbs for lunch.
Yes folks, Passover (or Pesach, if you will) is upon us once more. And rather than post the usual clips of matzo jokes, I’m going to suggest you all go out and pick up the following gift for your seder hosts:
Four years ago, author Sherryl Bellman published the coffee table/cookbook “America’s Great Delis”, a visual feast of photographs, essays, history, and schmaltz that chronicled many of the finest American Jewish Delicatessens of the past and present. With full color pictures, recipes from these delicatessens, and some of the best memories by friends and family, it was the perfect compliment to my own, decidedly wordy and picture-less Save the Deli.
Unfortunately, the book sold out and then was out of print for the past few years. I gave my last copy to the designer of this website (it was worth it), and really would love to have another. Now, just in time for Passover, the Lords of publishing delivereth.
Sellers Publishing has just released the paperback edition of “America’s Great Delis”, which went on sale a few weeks ago. You already have a copy of Buy it here.
And enjoy the seders everyone. Chag Sameyach.
Tonight: Arthur Schwartz and I talk at NY’s Museum of Jewish Heritage
Wednesday, March 24th, 2010Ladies and Gentlemen!
Tonight only, I, David Sax, will be in conversation about all things deli with the esteemed “Food Maven” Arthur Schwartz at the Museum of Jewish Heritage, here in New York City.
For those of you who don’t know him, Arthur Schwartz is to New York food (especially Jewish New York food), what Chevrolet is to NASCAR. He’s a true maven, with six cookbooks to his name, including one on Yiddish food. And the man knows the history of New York Deli better than anyone else, and I’m including myself in that distinction.
So as Passover beckons, come and join us for what will surely be an appetizing talk on all things edible.
The Museum of Jewish Heritage (formerly known as the Holocaust Museum)
7 PM, tonight, March 24th
36 Battery Place • Battery Park City • New York, NY
for tickets, CLICK HERE or call 646.437.4202
